South Australia
Wine, Wildlife, and Wonderment on Kangaroo Island
By Vanessa Niven
I cannot believe my luck when I am selected for the South Australia Tourism Commission’s exclusive educational journey to Adelaide and Kangaroo Island. Despite some trepidation about the long flights from Houston, I know I have to take this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Even better, we are traveling in the Australian fall, thus avoiding the occasional 100°F-plus temperature spikes of summer in the Adelaide region. Coming from a hot city, I prefer to escape the heat and avoid high temperatures as much as possible when I travel.
We start our journey off in Adelaide, a small — but still important — city, with a fantastic Italian-Australian fusion dinner at iTL Italian Kitchen, located within our host hotel, Eos by SkyCity. This brilliant restaurant offers simple yet contemporary Italian cuisine that serves to showcase fresh and seasonal South Australian produce, including locally caught seafood and Australia’s famed Wagyu beef, all paired with excellent South Australian wines.
Early the next morning, we catch a flight to Kingscote on Kangaroo Island on a QantasLink prop plane, which I must admit has me a bit stressed at first. However, the flight is short – only 20 minutes – and perfectly smooth, and I am even able to catch a quick nap on board to prepare myself for the exciting day ahead. When we arrive in Kingscote, an energetic guide from Southern Ocean Lodge greets us and chats about our planned itinerary for the next few days.
Southern Ocean Lodge
Southern Ocean Lodge, a member of both the extraordinary Baillie Lodges collection and the Luxury Lodges of Australia group, originally opened in 2008 to international acclaim. Designed by local architect Max Pritchard, the lodge was crafted to seamlessly blend into its privileged clifftop location overlooking the sparkling Indian Ocean. Following the lodge’s destruction in the devastating bushfires of 2020, owners James and Hayley Baillie immediately committed to rebuilding the lodge with the help of Max and his design partner, Andrew Gunner, recreating a masterpiece of Australian luxury accommodation that finally reopened in December 2023.
The spa at Southern Ocean Lodge is an oasis of deep tranquility in an already serene environment. This sensory retreat has three indoor treatment rooms, a spacious lounge, and a small, well-equipped gym. Outside, guests will find hot and cold plunge pools, as well as a sauna.
The spa’s menu features high-end organic products, including the island’s own Ligurian honey – after all, Kangaroo Island is home to the only pure strain of Ligurian bees. Treatments also use the alkeme spa care range, a small-batch Australian line created by wellness expert Aphra Skye Heron.
Plan to spend at least three nights at Southern Ocean Lodge for plenty of time to experience not only the amazing activities on the island, but also the range of spa treatments available.
Southern Ocean Lodge's Environmental Commitment
The Baillie Lodges luxury property portfolio is committed to environmental sustainability. On Kangaroo Island, this commitment is evident in four key areas at its flagship lodge: environment, water, energy, and community.
- Environment: The lodge maintains a 65-foot-wide “wilderness buffer” in which naturally fire-retardant native succulents are planted alongside the island’s native juniper. Emergency sprinklers are cleverly hidden around the exterior of the property to aid in fire management.
- Water: The lodge is completely off the island’s municipal water supply. It maintains its own reverse osmosis system to filter water from both the property’s borehole and its massive rainwater collection system.
- Energy: Southern Ocean Lodge is also off the island’s electrical grid. The lodge produces its own electricity through a hybrid solar farm and battery system. Eco-friendly appliances and a computerized building management system allow for minimal use of electricity on site.
- Community: The hospitality management team engages actively with the local community and favors local growers and producers as food and beverage suppliers. This ensures fresh, local produce and high-quality meats and seafood for guests, all while supporting local businesses on the island.
Discovering Kangaroo Island
Our journey to discover Kangaroo Island begins with a guided visit to Seal Bay, where Australia’s third-largest colony of Australian sea lions makes its home. With only around 14,700 members of this endangered species remaining, we are immensely happy to see at least a dozen pups wandering around the protected area. Afterward, we enjoy an excellent dinner at the lodge before heading out again with our guide for a unique Nocturnal Explorer tour of Hanson Bay Sanctuary, where we witness koalas at their most active — during feeding time, of course — and keep our eyes open for kangaroos, wallabies, and possums.
The next day, we experience the lodge’s signature “Wonders of Kangaroo Island” tour, which takes us west into the vast frontier of Flinders Chase National Park. We explore the lighthouse keepers’ cottages and learn about the drama of two families forced to survive together in this remote destination in the early 1900s. Next, we stop for photos at the red-topped Cape du Couedic Lighthouse before heading down the cantilevered boardwalk to Admirals Arch to visit the fur seal colony there. Lastly, we visit one of Kangaroo Island’s signature landmarks, the Remarkable Rocks — a lovely way to cap off the morning.
Pro tip: Travel to Kangaroo Island in the off season — fall or winter — to experience the Remarkable Rocks without crowds of tourists! – Catherine Brown, Travel Designer
After lunch back at the lodge, we depart from the lodge doorstep and enjoy a walk along the pristine limestone clifftops of Hanson Bay. At twilight, we drive out to Grassdale, a historic island property that served as a farmhouse and then housing for seasonal workers during the 20th century. Here we are able to get fairly close to — but still a safe distance from — the island’s endemic kangaroos in their natural habitat while we enjoy sparkling wine and canapés and watch the spectacular sunset. A subspecies of the western grey kangaroo, Kangaroo Island kangaroos are noticeably shorter than their mainland brethren and have darker, woollier coats. There are approximately 65,000 of these gentle creatures on the island, and we enjoy spending some time with them as they partake in their evening meal. They keep a wary eye on us, but are not easily frightened away from the delicious grasses in the old Grassdale pasture.
The following day, we meet up with Exceptional Kangaroo Island owner Craig to explore the north side of the island. Our first stop is for morning tea at Snelling Beach, the most popular beach on the north coast. Afterward, we continue to the very secluded beach at Stokes Bay, voted Australia’s best beach in 2023 and only accessible through a maze of boulders and rocks that help keep it hidden from view. Craig keeps us fascinated throughout the day with his many stories about growing up on the island, pointing out a childhood home here and a friend’s restaurant there. He even regales us with a tale of helping to electrify a house as a teen and discovering the hard way that the attic was inhabited by black tiger snakes! Aside from storytelling, Craig is also an excellent chef and takes us to a friend’s farm, where he treats us to a lovely barbecue lunch.
Eventually, though, it is time for us to leave this remarkable island, and we head back to Kingscote Airport for our flight back to the mainland and our continued journey into the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale of South Australia. That, however, is a story for another issue.
*Main image courtesy South Australian Tourism Commission
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