Winter in the West is not for the faint of heart. In The Solace of Open Spaces, author Gretel Ehrlich, who came to Wyoming to be a sheep herder, paints a vivid picture: “Winter lasts six months here. Prevailing winds spill snow drifts to the east, and new storms from the northwest replenish them. The white bulk is sometimes dizzying, even nauseating, to look at. At twenty, thirty, and forty degrees below zero, not only does your car not work, but neither do your mind and body.”   

I have this passage and much of the book underlined and dog-eared; Ehrlich’s writing somehow makes me enamored by the harshness of the state before my airplane wheels even hit the tarmac.  

As a born-and-bred Texan, my idea of a vacation does not involve snow or temperatures below zero. I cannot understand why anyone would voluntarily want to be outside in the shivering cold all day. But when I am invited to visit Wyoming in the winter, I jump at the opportunity. When will I get this chance again? It is an adventure filled with wildlife viewing, snow activities, and visiting two national parks: the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone.   

I am in — and will figure out how to manage the cold later.  

Headed West to Jackson Hole  

Arriving in Jackson Hole in January, I can see the snow-covered Tetons in the distance and promptly begin layering on all the winter gear I’ve packed in my suitcase. Disembarking the plane, brisk air sweeps across my face. I am in Wyoming, and smiling from ear to ear.   

I am met by our guide for the trip, Paul, a 20-year wildlife guide and biologist. As we pull out of the airport, I see the sign that reads Grand Teton National Park. We have already entered the park and are greeted by a moose browsing in the area. Because of the high-pack snow in the mountains, wildlife often migrates down to lower altitudes where they can still munch on sagebrush and twigs that survive the winter.   

Next, we hit the Town Square, dotted with quaint outdoor gear shops, art galleries, restaurants, and souvenir shops. I am glad to have snow boots, as the icy, slick roads make any other footwear a challenge to walk in. The park in the middle of the square sparkles with string lights and dons two arches composed of elk horns. A skating rink filled with the sounds of Tommy Dorsey lends itself to the atmosphere of the picture-perfect winter mountain town touted in movies. We make sure to stop at the iconic Million Dollar Cowboy Bar for a basket of fries and local brews. One cannot go to the Cowboy State without indulging in the culture, and we are roped in.  

National Parks are for (Wildlife) Lovers  

What’s unique about Wyoming is that it encompasses two of America’s greatest national parks, the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone. Fortunately, we get to visit both.   

Driven by our guide in a private vehicle through Grand Teton, we stop along the way and set up scopes to survey the land. Thanks to the National Elk Refuge, large elk herds gather in the winter. You can also catch a glimpse of other animals like bald eagles, coyotes, and sometimes wolves, who take advantage of animal carcasses in the refuge. Using high-powered scopes and binoculars, Paul quietly and patiently spots wildlife, then lets us view through the scopes while explaining in detail about the species. At the end of the day, we get up close to the refuge on a sleigh ride that takes us into the herd with the backdrop of the moon rising as the skies turn shades of purple before nightfall. For a moment, gazing upon the endless horizon, I can imagine the generations of people who once called this land home, enduring the unforgiving conditions. The faces of locals tell a story of survival and resilience, showing a toughness that proves life has not been easy on them.  

Venturing on snowshoes through Grand Teton National Park, we learn that tracks are easier to spot in the snow, making tracking more visible in the winter than in other months. Our snowshoe guide explains, “Most people think of the winter as dead and decaying, but below the surface, there is life. There is an entire world thriving just below our feet.” He is referring to microorganisms and animals that live in the subnivean zone including rodents, martens, squirrels, and some plants. This is a critical food source for animals like red foxes, coyotes, and birds of prey.   

At the end of our snowshoe adventure, we are escorted into an enclave of tall pine trees and are surprised to see an igloo and cozy fireplace where we eat lunch and refill our hungry bellies. Hot cocoa and s’mores for dessert warm the soul. There’s something about sitting around the fire in the wilderness, with no phones in sight, that creates a bond that far surpasses social media likes. Getting to reconnect with nature is the best way to recharge and let go of life’s daily stresses. It reminds me of how tiny I am in this big, beautiful, abundant world.  

After exploring the Tetons, we make the 1.5-hour drive to the southern entrance to Yellowstone, America’s first National Park and one of the most visited. During the summer months, Yellowstone can see upwards of 2 million visitors. But less than 2% of those people visit in the winter, making this season a unique and optimal time to experience the park if you’re not a fan of crowds. Most of it is only accessible by snow coach or snowmobile, so pulling over to see bison or scan for wolves often means that we are the only ones there.   

Seeing Old Faithful erupt with no one else around is surreal and almost makes you feel like we’re not supposed to be there. Carefully walking on the boardwalks through the geyser and geothermal basins feels otherworldly, Yaktrax secure over our snow boots for traction. Steam billows all around us; the only noise we hear is the gurgling of hot springs beneath our feet. At one point, I decide to venture off by myself in hopes of capturing a photo of a bison. I take a moment to stop and sit on a bench and revel in the quietness. Not a sound is heard, which is a luxury that many of us do not experience much in our busy lives anymore. Out of the stillness comes a determined coyote, making its way through the basin and heading towards me. I am able to capture a few photos of the coyote as it stops to make sure I am not a threat. Giving wildlife plenty of room is always advised in a wild place like Yellowstone. Bison can move quicker than you think, and moose are an aggressive and unpredictable animal due to their solitary lifestyle. After taking a few photos, I retreat to meet up with the others for a lovely dinner and cozy stay at the Old Faithful Inn, the only operating accommodation in the winter.   

On our drive out of the park, a curious red fox runs alongside us, kindly showing us our way out. I do not expect to have that kind of an encounter, and it is the icing on the cake after a day of exploring America's most iconic national park.  

Beyond the Ordinary  

Visiting Wyoming in the winter opens my eyes and expands my mind. A once cold-adverse person, I’m now wondering what other places I have missed out on because of my irrational fear of being cold. With good gear and a well-planned itinerary, I realize there is nothing to worry about.   

Where to Stay