Written by Vanessa Niven 

My plane touches down in Tokyo, and I am suddenly awash with memories of my study abroad year in Japan in 2005. While I was based in Nagoya at the time, I took multiple trips to Tokyo by shinkansen (bullet train) to explore the city’s famous sights and sounds. Now, I am returning not just to a city, but to a version of myself from 20 years ago.

From my Shibuya hotel room window, I am once again awed  by the neon lights, bright signage of department stores, and mind-boggling skyline. The sheer scale of the city still takes my breath away. Tokyo, a city that never stops changing, was calling me back, but would the city remember me? And would I recognize it?

It turns out that, while Tokyo has evolved considerably in 20 years, I can always count on Japan’s ancient history to keep me grounded. The morning after my arrival, I head out with a guide to the Imperial Palace Gardens, which shows many signs of life despite the dormancy associated with January weather. I did not have a chance to walk the park when I last visited Tokyo, but this time, I am lucky enough to spot a white crane—an auspicious sign in Japanese culture—standing stock-still in a pond full of koi. The quiet beauty of the gardens feels like a whispered reminder that even in winter, life continues just below the surface.

Senso-ji Temple, also known as Asakusa Kannon, and the bustling Nakamise Shopping Arcade are our next stop. When I first came to this temple and market, I spotted a few tourists from other countries. However, most visitors were Japanese, seeking a blessing from Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion, as well as some cute souvenirs to bring home. (Personally, I brought home about a dozen magnets and keychains to hand out as souvenirs to my family.) Now, the temple and shopping arcade are filled with diverse visitors, many of whom are experiencing the delectable Japanese street food and snacks found here for the first time. The ichigo ame (sugar-glazed strawberries) served on a stick are a particularly popular treat, offered at many of the Nakamise stalls.

Another highlight, of course, is Ginza. It has always been a popular neighborhood for high-end and boutique shopping, and very little has changed except for the relocation of a few well-known storefronts. Two decades ago, I was terrified of entering one of these boutiques—I felt my student lifestyle precluded me from even window shopping. As an adult, I recognize the depth of craftsmanship and enter with ease, lingering in each store as an experience to be savored rather than an aspiration kept at arm’s length. Spending time in these hushed, elegant spaces feels almost meditative, a pause from the city’s restless energy.

Tokyo is also one of the world’s most renowned destinations for fine dining, as well as a hub for unique food experiences. On a student budget, I had to find cheap eats on my first few visits to Tokyo. This was mostly limited to street food and fast-food chains (Mos Burger, I’m looking at you).

Fast-forward to 2025, and I have the pleasure of experiencing everything from Michelinstarred vegan cuisine to innovative shojinryori (Buddhist cuisine) and a luxurious kaiseki (Kyoto imperial style) meal that felt like a poem, each dish seeming to represent its own stanza. Personal favorites include a high-end sushi experience and an incredible sukiyaki lunch served counter-side at a tiny Michelin recommended restaurant in Toranomon. The artistry, precision, and seasonality of Japanese cuisine still astonish me, and now I have the means to indulge in it fully.

I first came to Tokyo as a young traveler seeking novelty and adventure. This time, I find meaning in the details. The city has changed, but so have I. Gone are the silly notions of my youth, giving way to a new appreciation of the harmony between ancient and modern, offering a sense of peace amid the constant motion of one of the world’s largest cities. Standing on aquiet side street as the scent of fresh yakitori drifts from a tiny izakaya and the distant hum of a Shinkansen echoes through the night, I feel utterly present—rooted in the Tokyo of today, yet still connected to the one I knew twenty years ago.

Where to Stay

THE PRINCE GALLERY KIOICHO 

A soaring sanctuary with sweeping city views, The Prince Gallery Kioicho blends contemporary Japanese design with refined service. Spacious rooms, a serene spa, and exceptional dining create an urban retreat just steps from Tokyo’s vibrant cultural and shopping districts.