I have long dreamt of going on a traditional safari since I began working in the luxury tourism industry 12 years ago. I remember hearing extravagant and adventurous stories from colleagues and gawking in amazement at the wildlife photography captured through camera lenses longer than my arm. So, when my invitation to northern Kenya finally arrives, I quietly say yes and cross my fingers.
The experience goes off without a hitch and surpasses my wildest imagination. I get up close to the wildlife and the people who still roam great stretches of Earth. I learn how humans work with the land, not on it, with the goal of protecting endangered species and the traditions that make Kenya special. Traveling to five different conservancies, each unique in its own way, I witness an epic conservation success story, woven together to preserve a delicate but thriving ecosystem.
Nairobi National Park
Nairobi National Park is the only national park located within a capital city, only five miles from Nairobi’s city center. Within 45 minutes of landing, I am already on a game drive heading to my first accommodation, The Emakoko. Since I arrive late at night, I do not see much, but sitting down for a late welcome dinner, staring out into the darkness, I hear a lion’s roar in the distance. Frozen mid-bite with eyes wide open, I realize that I am now surrounded by the wilderness of Kenya.
Waking up in the luxurious private house from the property’s highest point, I stand in amazement as I witness my first sunrise in Kenya. Thanks to the proximity of The Emakoko to the national park, our vehicle is the first one through the gates for a morning game drive. Nairobi National Park is a rhino sanctuary and its success in repopulating black and white rhinos makes it a haven for a once nearly extinct species. Seeing these historic animals in their natural habitat against the backdrop of skyscrapers from the capital city is a fascinating view to behold. Here, two contrasting sights not normally seen together coexist side by side. Other wildlife including lions, cheetahs, buffalo, giraffes, gazelles, zebras, and more than 400 bird species also call this protected piece of land home.
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy
A short flight later and the roads and buildings of bustling Nairobi melt into rolling lush green hills as I head into Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. From the plane, I spot a huge, tusked solo elephant making his way across the savannah. I have yet to see an elephant, and my once sleepy eyes are wide awake with excitement. Nairobi National Park is a wonderful introduction to an African safari, but Lewa, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and spans 62,000 acres, is mind-blowing as a first-time safari goer.
As a leader in wildlife conservation, Lewa pioneered the concept of conservation management for both private and community lands and their inhabitants, with the goal of optimizing social, economic, and environmental values. Having seen such great success as a rhino sanctuary, it is now translocating rhinos to other conservancies and educating others on best practices for community-centered conservation. Following the belief that communities need to benefit from the management of land use and wildlife for conservation to become sustainable, some of its programs include an anti-poaching ranger unit, security and monitoring of wildlife, wildlife population management, neighboring community engagement and development, and a conservation-tourism model that helps fund the efforts.
I stay at Lewa House, a generational private house belonging to husband-and-wife team Calum and Sophie — granddaughter of the Craig family who once used the land as a cattle ranch and first saw the value in conservation decades ago. Their motto “always leave space for wildlife” ignited the conservancy at Lewa. They live this ethos today by taking an eco-conscious and simple approach to how the property runs daily. Designed to blend in with the landscape, the house operates on solar power, collects and uses rainwater, and delivers a stunning menu from its own on-site farm. The wow factor comes from the views afforded by each room, where wildlife passes by as you rest after a day of exploring. I enjoy having dinner with the owners while learning about what it takes to create and maintain a place like Lewa. I leave feeling inspired and content, armed with knowledge that something like this not only exists, but also thrives.
Due to the season’s unprecedented amount of rainfall, the land is a shade of avocado green and alive with fresh foliage. Driving through the forests feels like a fairytale full of life. The herds of elephants making their way to and from Mount Kenya, a lone lioness lying in the grass, and a close call with a Cape buffalo have me on the edge of my seat for hours. Sundowners at the end of the day are magical. I now understand the obsession. Waking up with the sun and watching it slowly disappear behind the picturesque landscape is the only way to experience an African safari, and I am grateful for this beauty that few get to witness.
Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy
Next, I travel to Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy, the land of the Samburu — seminomadic pastoralists who live among the wildlife while rearing livestock. Situated at the base of the Matthews Range, the land is 100% Samburu-owned, and the preservation of their culture is honored and cherished. This area was once overrun by poaching that almost decimated the elephant and rhino populations. In 1995, the Namunyak Community Conservancy was established to conserve wildlife and allow the Samburu to benefit from tourism. The word Namunyak means “land of peace,” as this 850,000-acre conservancy is now a place of peace for wildlife like De Brazza colobus monkeys, elephants, reticulated giraffes, leopards, and more.
Nestled at the foothills of the mountains sits Sarara Camp, crafted to seamlessly meld into the natural environment. En-suite tents are luxurious and spacious, giving an authentic wilderness experience, with the comforts of cozy beds, outdoor showers, and breathtaking views. The infinity pool sits atop the elephant waterhole where I spend afternoons relaxing and watching them drink and cover themselves in mud to ward off the hot sun. It is an ‘am I dreaming?’ moment, and I have to pinch myself. The success of the conservancy has now made Namunyuk home to the second-largest population of elephants in Kenya who are revered and well cared for. The Sarara Foundation works to protect the land, its people, and wildlife, including through the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary which takes in orphaned baby elephants and rehabilitates them for release back into the conservancy.
There are plenty of activities to do at Sarara, including heli-camping, horseback riding, trail running, and soon rock climbing, but spending time outdoors with the Samburu guides and craftsmen is what I cherish most. From gossiping with the beading mamas (no, I don’t have a husband) to making a bracelet from scratch with a blacksmith, I learn how these skills have been passed down for generations, and how the community benefits from tourism. Being a long-distance runner, I ask my hiking guide what he eats, and he tells me that he walks for days and only drinks milk and blood! The word Samburu means butterfly, because the people follow the grass and are nomadic. Just like the elephants that migrate from Mount Kenya and back, they, too, follow the rain and go where there is food and water for their cattle. Another unique experience guests can witness in the area is the singing wells. Here, the Samburu dig wells to find water for their cattle in the dry season while singing family songs that the cattle recognize to help them locate their well. This year, the singing wells are not necessary. My guide tells me that prior to this year, they had not had rain for seven years in the region and that he has never seen the land this lush in his whole life.
Laikipia
Onward to Laikipia, the adventurer’s safari playground. Lying north of Nairobi and Mount Kenya, this area also champions conservation and supports the local community, enabling it to thrive in a changing modern world. As the second most dense wildlife habitat next to the Mara, Laikipia is also where endangered species like the Grevy’s zebra, Jackson’s hartebeest, reticulated giraffe, and black rhino can be seen in East Africa. In addition to protecting the area’s wildlife, The Samburu Trust supports the Samburu community with two schools, a burns medical room, a reservoir system for clean drinking water, and medical care for both humans and wildlife. It also fosters community enterprise by facilitating selling homemade goods at markets, and providing goat milk for the baby elephants at Reteti.
Since the region lies outside of Kenya’s national parks and reserves, guests can get out of vehicles and explore the area on foot, or by mountain bike, horseback, camel, and even helicopters. This makes my next accommodation, Ol Malo, a place with never-ending adventurous activity options. Moments after stepping off the plane, I am already at Ol Malo, thanks to the luxury of a private airstrip. Steeped in history, Ol Malo was built in the early 1990s and was one of the first luxury bush homes in northern Kenya. Family-owned and operated, Ol Malo makes guests feel like they are stepping into someone’s private home. With the warmth of a gentle crackling fireplace in the house, superior service, unique and comfortable rooms in the lodge, and the owner’s children and dogs playing nearby, I let my guard down and sink into relaxation.
While I enjoy game drives, I am excited to move my body and get the blood pumping. As a trail runner, I am encouraged to try the 3 Peaks Challenge. Guests can run with a Samburu guide from the lodge down into the wild valley and across to two peaks and back up. The distance is six miles and 1,500 feet of elevation gain. The times on the board in the lobby are around one and a half hours. Easy, I think! I get up early, ego in tow, and meet my Samburu guide, Pasaka, to start the run. When I see that he is wearing pants and long sleeves, I realize that my shorts and a tank top may not be appropriate gear. The recent rains create overgrown bushes, spikey acacia trees, and grasses up to my shoulders, pricking and poking me along the way. I’m used to running in unforgiving terrain, but this is on another level. When we reach the first peak, watching the sunrise over the incredible vista, I tell him, “This is why I trail run, for this moment right here.” He agrees, and we sit in silence to take in the view. On we go, slowly making our way up the other peak and finally hiking back up to the lodge. Relieved to be done, the time on my watch reads 2:09, and my legs and arms are covered in scrapes and rash. I have always wanted to run in Kenya with a local, and wow, did I get my wish!
Outside the 3 Peaks Challenge, there is no shortage of heart-pumping activities that bring the wildlife of Kenya into the soul. At the Treehouse and Leopard Hide sleepouts, guests can sleep among the animals, and at Ol Malo Nomad, they can go camping and trekking in the bush. Doorless helicopter trips to remote locations and camel- and horseback-riding safaris round out the menu of adventures.
Masai Mara National Reserve & Enonkishu Conservancy
Lastly, I land in the famed Masai Mara, arguably what Kenya is most known for due to the Great Migration. Millions of wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles migrate each year in search of new pasture and water, which in turn attracts predators, creating drama before your eyes. Sharing a border with the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, this huge swath of land makes it one of the top safari destinations for big game viewing in the world and is also home to the Masai people, the original inhabitants of this land. The Mara Triangle, managed by The Mara Conservancy, partners with the Reserve to help with wildlife management, land conservation, and to establish trust and respect between the Masai community, local authorities, and tourists.
Within twenty minutes of disembarking from the plane, a pride of lions is spotted taking cover under sparsely scattered desert date trees. Unlike the other game drives, where spotting big cats is more of a challenge, here, cats are king. The sprawling savannah makes it easier to spot wildlife from a distance. I see pods of hippos, elephants, buffalo, topi, rhinos, Nile crocodiles, blue wildebeests, and Masai giraffes. The cheetahs seem to elude us on this trip, but the amount of wildlife seen in a few hours on a drive is astonishing.
Resting on the banks of the Mara River lies Tangulia Mara, a tented bush camp where staff greet me with traditional song. Being the only camp on the boundary of the reserve that is fully Masai-owned, the guiding and authenticity is bar none. Not only are the game drives and local experiences fascinating, but sitting down to dinner or in the lodge watching hippos from comfortable couches while listening to stories from the owners Jackson and Dominic, who have lived here all their lives, is what I remember most. My favorite memory is playing African charades one rainy evening when our plans for sundowners are diverted. We all act out different animals and laugh into the late hours of the night until it is time for bed. It is always the simple moments of connection that leave a lasting impact.
Tangulia is also at the forefront of guiding in the Mara. Learning directly from Jackson, who has been guiding for over 25 years, his team is the best. Lucy, one of the few female guides in the area, is a favorite among guests, and Tangulia has plans to bring more women on board as they see the value in lifting up Masai women in the community.
The last two days, I end the trip at House in the Wild, located in Enonkishu Conservancy at the edge of the Mara Serengeti ecosystem. Once a family farm, the land was rewilded to preserve the livelihood of the community, cattle, and wildlife. By implementing a livestock enterprise through holistic management, the outcome improves the quality of life for livestock and the Masai people and preserves an ancient heritage. With education through the Mara Training Center, community members and other conservancies can learn about effective community engagement, livestock enterprise, and sustainable rangeland management. Tourism also plays an important role as communities acknowledge the value of wildlife and the profits to be made through conservation fees.
Walking into House in the Wild, I am taken aback by the beautiful open space with a view of the Mara River down below, complete with pods of hippos making their presence known. This luxury safari lodge stuns with impeccably decorated cottages and villas. I stay in the recently built Kisaru Cottage and watch warthogs graze from my bed. It is another “pinch me” moment. House in the Wild is unique in that it has a photo lab where guests can learn how to take photos and edit them in-house. You can even hire a photographer to do a photo shoot for you while on safari. No more bad selfies!
One evening we take a drive up to the recently completed private villa, Wild Hill, for sundowners. “Villa” is an understatement; it feels more like a wellness compound that sits on top of Kileleoni hill, the highest point in the Masai Mara. The views are like nothing I’ve ever seen — it feels like I can see all of Kenya perched from this spot. With five rooms, an infinity pool, an on-site fitness center (including a sauna and cold plunge), and a fully equipped kitchen, Wild Hill is an unforgettably luxurious splurge. Featuring activities geared toward any traveler, including a walk down to the rhino sanctuary at the bottom of the hill, it’s the perfect place to leave your worries behind and find yourself in the wild.
Pro Tip: While August is the best time to witness the great migration in the Masai Mara, it also comes with more crowds. Consider the green season in May for a more intimate experience in the Mara.
Leaving Kenya, a sense of sadness falls over me. I have a mini rewilding of my soul, living amidst the East African wild. How often is it that I get to spend two weeks without looking at a computer screen, doing dishes, sitting in traffic, or dealing with life stresses? Being able to get away and lose myself in the wilderness of these five inspiring conservancies is life changing and mind expanding. From going on my first safari to learning how the pastoralist thrives in a rapidly changing world, to being waited on hand and foot at these extraordinary luxury properties — I take home more than photos and memories — I take home an urge to act. How can I incorporate all of what I see and learn and use it to improve my own piece of land in Texas? How can I get involved with community organizations that aim to conserve land and wildlife?
Imagine if every traveler came home from a trip and pondered these questions. That is the power of tourism and the reason I am passionate about the industry I have the privilege of being in. Travel opens minds and hearts and changes a person at their core.
Amy Willis
Amy is the resident graphic designer at Ker & Downey. She first got bit by the travel bug when she studied abroad in Spain in college and hasn’t stopped traveling since. She spent a year travelling the world while working remotely and often takes running trips to explore wild places on foot. She loves Mexico, Latin America, and Asia, and recently went on her first safari in Kenya and fell in love with African culture and wildlife.
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