Long before I was comfortable in the saddle, I fell in love with the idea of galloping across the untamed wilds of the Mongolian steppe through movies–the wind in my hair, the scent of the wildflowers filling my lungs. So when I discovered Stone Horse Expeditions & Travel’s Gorkhi-Terelj National Park eight-day horse-riding tour, it felt like either destiny calling or a reckless idea. Never one to back away from an adventure, I promptly signed up for riding lessons and secured my spot.

Six months and countless hours of trotting and cantering around a paddock in East Los Angeles later, I arrive in Ulaanbaatar, a fascinating mix of Soviet-era buildings and modern high-rises. After checking into my hotel, I have time to explore a bit—wandering past Sukhbaatar Square, watching the city’s chaotic rhythm unfold around me. But my mind is already far from the neon lights, picturing my feet in the stirrups and the reins in my hands. Within 24 hours, we head out to Gorkhi-Terelj, leaving behind the capital’s chaotic rhythm for the open wilderness just an hour outside the city. 

Our group is small—just six of us (coincidentally, all women) from around the world, including my friend Denise. We are accompanied by our guides and co-owners/ operators, Sabine Schmidt and Keith Swenson, and our cooks and horsemen, ensuring an intimate and high-touch experience.  

We’re also joined by a handful of spares and pack horses loaded with the necessary food and supplies, not to mention Keith and Sabine’s loveable Mongolian Bankhar dog, Stinky, a breed prized for its livestock guarding abilities, athleticism, ruggedness, and loyalty. (Note: Stinky has since passed on, and Tisha has taken his place). 

As we set off on our initial ride, the first few hours are an adjustment as I become accustomed to the saddle. Sabine spent years perfecting the design of Stone Horse’s saddles after training at Sierra Saddlery School in New Mexico. Made in Stone Horse’s own saddlery workshop, these hand-tooled, Western-style saddles, designed to fit smaller Mongolian horses, are equal parts robust and functional. They are modified for long-distance riding and guest safety, including cages on stirrups and a high cantle that gives the rider a secure seat. It’s not long until I find my balance and let my body adjust to the rhythm of my horse, Khukh Buural, which means Blue Roan in Mongolian, whose gentle disposition quickly puts me at ease.  

Soon, the last vestiges of civilization slip away, and all that’s left to take in is undulating fields dotted with wildflowers and the brilliant blue sky above. Stinky, who has a penchant for chasing ground squirrels when they emerge from hiding, zigzags across the landscape in front of the herd, as if to show us the way, and the horsemen and packhorses, which run freely alongside us, eventually pull ahead to set up camp for the evening. We cross over a steep pass into the upper valley of the Terelj River before taking a break at a grassy outcrop and finally descending to the site of our first camp, which is already humming with activity. 

Each morning, we wake up to the sun glowing through our tents and head to the tipi for a hearty breakfast and, most importantly, freshly brewed coffee, before breaking camp.  

Most of our time in the saddle is spent trotting through lush greenery, the horses’ preferred gait in open terrain, and the best way for us to cover 12 to 20 miles daily. This is no nose-to-tail ride; horses and riders have the freedom to spread out and move at their own pace. For those of us feeling confident, there’s also an opportunity to separate from the herd and gallop ahead into the great wide open—my dream come true! (Yes, I do it, and it is even more exhilarating than I had imagined).  

Each day follows the same rhythm, including plenty of water and grazing breaks for the horses, and a long, leisurely smorgasbord lunch in a scenic, sun-dappled spot, typically followed by a nap. Day four brings the biggest surprise when, at the end of the day, we find ourselves face-to-face with a cluster of gers in a tree-lined pasture, part of the Princess Lodge, which are our much-welcomed accommodations for the evening, complete with running water and cold beers.  

The final day takes us along the upper Terelj River, following well-established tracks through easy terrain. After a picnic lunch near the water, we cross one last mountain pass. From the top, I take a moment to soak it all in—the endless sky, the rolling hills, the feeling of absolute freedom. An hour later, we arrive back at Stone Horse’s base camp, where snacks and drinks are waiting. Our trail horses are released to rejoin the herd, galloping off across the grasslands. 

Mongolia had given me something intangible, something I hadn’t even realized I was searching for—a connection to the land, to a way of life unchanged for centuries, to a freedom that only comes from riding beneath an endless sky. 

Pro Tip!: Horseback expeditions in Mongolia require an appropriate level of physical strength and endurance, which will be assessed by the operator at the time of inquiry. If you do not have enough riding experience for a full expedition, shorter treks and one-day trail rides can also be arranged. Children must be at least 14 years old and are subject to the same fitness standards as adults. -Vanessa Niven, Asia Product Manager 

Ready to jump in the saddle and see Mongolia for yourself? Contact our team of dedicated travel designers to start planning your personalized adventure.