By Vanessa Niven

When I first arrived on Jeju Island, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Of course, I had a rough outline of my planned activities, but as the type of traveler who leans towards guided tours of pristine art collections or quietly watching wildlife from the deck of my safari lodge, I was worried that I wouldn’t be the “right fit” for the island. "Surely,” I thought, “this is a place for adventure travelers who want to spend all their time outdoors, hiking, biking, and climbing their way through the island’s unique landscapes.” 

I wasn’t entirely wrong with my assessment. Jeju IS a place for adventurers to explore. From walking the Jeju Olle Trails, a series of trails that follow the coastline allowing hikers to explore the natural beauty and rural communities of the island, to climbing Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak), which early risers can climb before sunrise to enjoy awesome views of the whole island, Jeju is the perfect place for active travelers to experience the great outdoors on a luxury tour through South Korea.  

However, I also found that there was plenty to do for less active travelers like myself. There are museums galore on Jeju Island—100 museums of various sizes and levels of seriousness dot the island’s 714-square-mile landscape. My absolute favorite of these is dedicated to the haenyeo, the female divers that are perhaps most famous for diving up to 100 feet below the surface with no oxygen support to harvest ingredients important to Korean cuisine from the seabed, including the coveted abalone. I was aware of these amazing women’s feats before I visited due to their inscription in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. But watching some of them go out for the morning dive and then walking through the museum with my private guide was a truly moving experience that taught me so much about the history of hardship, tragedy, and strength that informs these women’s lives even today.  

Walking Jeju Island

Walking around the island is another fantastic way to immerse yourself in the landscape's ancient history—it has been inhabited constantly since the Neolithic period—and I loved discovering some of the still-inhabited rural villages along the way. The Jeju Olle Trails circle the entire island, and travelers can decide how much or how little walking they want to do, from short leisurely walks to the full 271-mile track over several days. These coastal walks are the best way to experience the unique coastline of Jeju Island which is made up of remarkable volcanic columnar joints similar to those seen at Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland.  

Once you run out of coastline to explore, head inland to climb Sunrise Peak for great aerial views of the island. Or, spend an afternoon walking, hiking, or climbing through Hallasan National Park. There are seven trails available of varying difficulty levels, making it possible for more active travelers to challenge themselves. Meanwhile, slower-paced travelers can enjoy a leisurely 30- to 60-minute walk and still marvel at the magnificent silver grass fields and gorgeous vistas from South Korea’s highest mountain.  

Dining on Jeju Island

After all this walking, I certainly worked up an appetite and had several opportunities to try the delicious local cuisine of Jeju Island. Contrary to internet rumors, there are no Michelin-starred restaurants on the island (most of those are found in Seoul and Busan on the mainland). However, that doesn't mean that excellent dining options are lacking.  

Jeju Island is perhaps most famous for its black pork, sometimes referred to as the wagyu of pigs. These pigs are only raised on Jeju, and farmers must adhere to strict guidelines about how to properly raise them in the traditional manner. The best way to enjoy it is charcoal grilled in a venue away from touristy areas. 

Not a fan of pork? Seafood is of course a specialty on the island, and I highly recommend trying a dish featuring precious abalone, freshly harvested by a haenyeo diver that same day. Abalone porridge is a hearty and comforting dish that I greatly enjoyed after one of our lovely island walks. In cooler weather, an abalone hot pot may be just the thing to recharge your energy reserves after climbing one of the island’s volcanic peaks.  

In the end, this low-key traveler found a lot to enjoy on Jeju Island, and much of it brought me outside of my comfort zone and challenged me to enjoy travel in a different way. I hope it does the same for travelers who are willing to discover this incredible destination that offers not only natural beauty but also plenty of art, culture, and cuisine on the journey.  

Ker & Downey Recommends

Ker & Downey’s expert travel designers are at their best when customizing a special journey just for you. Here’s an example of how to spend a day enjoying the coastal waters and interior of the island: 

To Connect with Nature:

Dolphin Spotting and Spirited Garden Walk

While mainland South Korea is known for its plentiful bird species, did you know that a pod of approximately 120 endangered Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins makes its home in the waters surrounding Jeju Island? Even better, they’re here year-round thanks to the water conditions. Head out in the morning on a boat with an expert guide, cruising along the southwestern coast to spot wild dolphins playfully interacting with each other in a totally natural setting. After a delicious lunch back on land, you’ll shake off your sea legs with a walking tour of the delightful Spirited Garden, a botanical park dedicated to growing hundreds of bonsai plants and other native species that thrive in the volcanic soil. 

For an Exclusive Experience

Jeju Island isn’t just known for its traditional fare. The island population has been experimenting for decades with green tea, beer, Jeju tangerines, and more to craft a thriving modern food and drink culture. Here is one of our favorite ways to explore the island’s craft beer scene: 

Equestrian Arts Performance and Beer Tasting

Begin the day with a special equestrian performance at Raon The Ma Park. The performance is based on the life of Goguryeo Dynasty, Jumong, and shows off both the incredible athleticism of its human performers as well as the native Jeju horses. While at the park, you can also walk through the Jeju Horse Museum, which covers the 600-year history of horse breeding on Jeju. After lunch, head to the Jeju Beer Company’s factory for a private tour of the facility. Beer here is produced entirely with local ingredients, and the Jeju Wit Ale is especially good with a slice of dried Jeju tangerine for garnish. Don’t worry: You’ll have plenty of time to taste samples of their products at the third-floor pub following the tour. 

Where to Stay:

The Shilla Jeju

Part of the Shilla luxury Korean hotel collection, the Shilla Jeju is perfect for couples seeking a romantic and sumptuous resort experience with easy access to Jungmun Beach. This resort is the go-to hotel for VIPs and heads of state, so it’s guaranteed to provide the exclusive luxury stay to which Ker & Downey clients are accustomed. With seven dining and drinking establishments, you’ll never have to go far for an excellent meal. The resort also offers an art gallery, kids’ zone, private garden, three pools, and an incredible Guerlain Spa.  

Lotte Hotel Jeju

The delightful Lotte Hotel Jeju is our recommendation for families traveling with children. Not only is the entire fourth floor of the hotel devoted to Hello Kitty, with custom furnishings, bed linens, décor, and bathroom amenities, but the resort also offers multiple kids’ clubs for varying age groups, including a VR center. Lotte Hotel Jeju is located just next door to the Shilla Jeju, meaning it is also near Jungmun Beach, a popular surfing spot. There is plenty on offer for parents, too, from a Louis Vuitton boutique to an extensive spa and fitness center.  

Lotte Jeju Art Villas

If immediate beach access is less important to you than having your whole crew under one roof in secluded luxury, then the living architecture museum that is Lotte Jeju Art Villas is a perfect choice. With several types of villas to choose from, all designed by renowned architects from Asia and beyond, this incredible resort offers something for everyone, from groups of friends to multigenerational families.