Golden Sands  

After a good night’s sleep in the quiet retreat of the Oberoi New Delhi, I meet my friend and travel partner and take the short flight to Jodhpur. From there, it’s a four-hour road trip into the desert to Jaisalmer. Lying at the end of the Thar Desert, this “Golden City” was once an important outpost on the Silk Road, where camel caravans carrying spices, tapestries, and tea would gather. As our surroundings become less and less populated and trees turn to desert scrub, it’s easy to envision the trades that once happened here.  

Rounding a bend towards the end of our journey, we are greeted by two regal riders atop towering camels. Turning, they gallop ahead, leading us toward the camp.  

SUJÁN The Serai is a desert oasis, just 40 miles from the Pakistan border. Twenty-one tents spread out from a sparkling blue pool set against wild indigenous plants. Rich rugs, teak desks, candles, and canvases are a reminder of the long history here. Family owned, with warm and knowledgeable staff who have been at the property since its inception, the Serai is an amazing place from which to explore the region. The staff treats us to a viewing of “Dr. No” under the stars once we settle in, accompanied by popcorn, local bites, and cocktails out of their outdoor kitchen.    

The next day, after yoga and a tour of the organic farm, we head out to explore the imposing Jaisalmer Fort. Built in the 12th century, the “Golden Fortress” remains one of the world’s last living forts, where more than 4,000 people currently reside. Walking through the grounds, the drumbeats of a local musician echo across the sandstone walls, aglow with the setting sun, and families go about their evening routines. Later, we wind our way through the streets by tuktuk, dodging cattle and motorbikes, to see the complexes of intricately built havelis in the city center. Like so many places in India, the incredible views, vibrant fabrics, and wide smiles make this a photographer’s heaven.  

After a brief stop back in Delhi, we head to Varanasi, where we are taken by boat to our accommodations on the banks of the holy Ganges. More than 100,000 people arrive in Varanasi every day to pay respect to the river and visit the oldest living city in the world. Located directly on the Ganges, the 210-year-old BrijRama Palace has an ideal location from which to observe daily life. As a heritage property, the palace is warm and inviting — a henna treatment and foot massage welcome guests, with mala beads and caraway cookies as special gifts for the first-time visitor. The hotel’s dining options are vegetarian and alcohol-free, adhering to the spiritual customs along the holy Ganges, and our favorite meals of the trip are had in its waterfront dining room.