As Told by Haley Beham

I’ve wanted to go to Everest since I was a kid.

My fascination started with Jon Krakauer’s 1997 book Into Thin Air. Then, in 2014, I was finally on my way to trek to Base Camp when an earthquake hit Nepal. I was in the air when it happened. The trip was canceled. I thought my dream was over.

Eleven years later, the opportunity came again, and I knew if I was ever going to do this, now was the time. I’m a decade older, and my feet are too. If I was going to stand at the foot of Everest, I wanted to do it with the best guides, the smartest pacing, and every possible thoughtful comfort available.

That’s how I found myself flying back to Nepal last March.

What Sets This Journey Apart

More than 40,000 people trek toward Everest Base Camp each year.

Most never actually reach it. 

Many operators run the trek with a volume-driven approach. They move trekkers quickly. Get in and get out. The trail is crowded, and the pace is often too aggressive. Altitude sickness is common. And for many trekkers, the journey ends at a spray-painted boulder that reads “Everest Base Camp,” with the expedition tents far off in the distance. From there, they must turn around and retrace their steps.

But for this trip, I would be traveling with Rugged Luxury Expeditions, a ground partner who is a registered climbing expedition operator. That distinction allows them to lead their small groups beyond the rock-marked boundary and into Everest Base Camp proper.

The Expedition

The biggest difference between other Base Camp treks and our Rugged Luxury Base Camp Trek is the philosophy of the schedule. Most programs operate on a trekking schedule, whereas the Rugged Luxury Base Camp Trek follows a mountaineering schedule, built around acclimatization, safety, and giving each guest the highest possible chance of success.

The ascent is intentionally slow with strategic rest days. It’s what makes reaching Base Camp achievable. Even with those built-in acclimatization days, this elevation climb up to Everest Base Camp was incredibly hard for me. I can’t imagine attempting it on a tighter timeline.

Into the Khumbu

After a few days in Kathmandu, I fly to Lukla, widely regarded as the most dangerous airport in the world. That is not an exaggeration. The runway tilts upward and ends at a mountain wall.

Our first stop is Phakding, and from there, we weave our way up the Khumbu Valley, past Namche Bazaar and then on to Tengboche. By Namche Bazaar, which sits at over 11,000 feet, the headaches begin. I live at sea level, and altitude is not my strength, so I am thankful for an acclimatization day there.

It’s tough to stay warm in a tent at 16,000 feet, with temperatures hovering around 10 degrees Fahrenheit. I layer every piece of clothing I have and sleep with a hot water bottle inside my sleeping bag. 

At that altitude, everything is hard. Even brushing my teeth takes effort.

These three nights are some of the hardest of my life.

I am nauseated, exhausted, and emotional. I’m not eating, and I’m crying. At one point, I consider asking to be evacuated. Our guide offers a gentle but firm reality check: “You’ll have to improve if you want to go higher.” I am frustrated and nervous about the possibility of not being able to proceed, but looking back, I appreciate that the guide’s priority was my safety.

So, I double my medication. I rest. I focus on getting to Base Camp. That is the goal.

Through the Gates

When I imagined Base Camp, I pictured something the size of a campground.

It is not.

It’s a city of tents stretched across the Khumbu Glacier. It’s easily an hour’s walk from one end to the other. Everything is built atop moving ice and rock, carved fresh each season. Since you must be with a registered climbing expedition, everyone else at camp is preparing to summit.

The Descent

After two nights, it is time to leave. Helicopters can only take two passengers at that altitude. When ours finally arrives, I am told to run because the pilots don’t shut off the engine. Running at 17,500 feet feels impossible. My lungs feel as if they’ll burst.

When I depart Base Camp, I’m dressed for zero-degree weather, but when I arrive in Kathmandu, it’s a balmy 80 degrees, and my altitude symptoms have miraculously disappeared. In that moment, I am so grateful that I was able to helicopter down instead of spending several days retracing my steps. Instead of walking down the mountain, I use the time to explore more of Kathmandu, soaking up the culture, basking in the warmth, and reminding myself that I made it.

PRO TIP | “If you live close to sea level, it might be a good idea to spend a few days at a relatively high altitude before the trip. Any advantage you can gain to prepare for being at 10,000 feet and higher for days on end would be a huge benefit.” - Nicole Porto, Travel Designer

Not Quite Ready to Take on Everest?

Getting to Everest Base Camp is a bucket-list destination for many experienced trekkers, but it also comes with challenges. Consider another trek that can also be tackled alongside luxury and expert guiding. 

Machu Picchu

See one of the seven wonders of the world the way it was intended, by hiking along the iconic Inca trail. Surrounded by the stunning Andean landscapes, hikers will experience rich cultural heritage along the way and conclude the trek with a celebratory ending at the Sun Gate to Machu Picchu.

Mount Kilimanjaro Summit Climb

Climb to the “Roof of Africa” in Tanzania for another popular trek. With luxury touches like chef-prepared meals, private oversized tents, personal Altox oxygen for summit day, and even a helicopter descent, this expedition provides a once-in-a-lifetime adventure alongside exceptional hospitality.